Beef and Onion Steamed Buns

The secret to juicy meat buns — onion, pepper and ginger water

Pleated buns, ready for a steaming

Growing up in Taipei, steamed buns are a staple in everyday life. They are found at breakfast shops, dim sum restaurants, and the many street food vendors that line the alleys of Taipei City. Steamed buns come in every variety — pan-fried, steamed, stuffed with vegetable meat, or sweet fillings. 

The secret of a juicy meat bun is the onion, ginger, and pepper water that is beaten into the filling. It prevents the meat from drying out and you’ll end up with a tender and juicy filling. This recipe is designed for an afternoon or evening of hanging out in the kitchen. For cold climates, rise the dough for 25-30 minutes with a tray of boiling water in the oven. Make the filling while you wait for the dough to rise. Assign a wrapper roller while others pleat the buns. The beauty of making these in batches is that there will be plenty to share and give away. 

Beef and Onion Steamed Buns

Makes 16 buns

Ingredients

Onion, ginger, pepper water

• 2 tbsp (15 g) ginger, peeled and sliced

• 2 star anise seeds (optional)

• 1 tsp Sichuan black peppercorns*

• 3 white parts of spring onions, chopped

• 1/3 cup (113 g) boiling water
  

Meat Filling 

• 1 lb (453 g) lean ground beef

• Onion, ginger, pepper water (recipe above)

• 1 tbsp soy sauce

• 1 tbsp salt

• 1 tsp Sichuan peppercorn powder

• 1 large onion, peeled and finely chopped

• 3 green parts of spring onion, chopped

• 2 tbsp sesame oil

Steamed Bun Dough

• 1 cup (236 g) of lukewarm water 

• 1 tbsp (12 g) cane sugar

• 2 tsp (5 g) active dry yeast*

• 3 cups (420 g) all-purpose flour, plus extra for kneading and rolling

• 1/2 tsp (3 g) salt

• 1 tsp (4 g) baking powder

• 1 tsp (5 g) vegetable oil, plus extra for coating the bowl
  

Instructions

Making the filling: Bring a jug of water to boil. Add the ginger, star anise, chopped white parts of spring onion, and peppercorns to a bowl. Pour 1/3 cup of boiling water into the bowl, steep and let cool.

Add the meat to a large mixing bowl. Gradually stream in the onion, ginger, and pepper water. Mixing until well incorporated. Add in the salt, soy sauce, pepper powder, onion, and green onion, stirring continuously. Lastly, add in the sesame oil and mix. The oil will prevent the mixture from becoming too watery. Set the filling aside until ready to use.*

Making the dough: In a small bowl, add the yeast, warm water, and sugar and stir to dissolve the yeast. Let sit for 5 minutes to activate the yeast. The liquid should foam and look creamy. It’s important to use fresh yeast.  In a large mixing bowl, add the flour and make a well in the center. Sprinkle the baking powder around the outer ridges of the bowl so it will incorporate later. 

Slowly stream in the yeast mixture to the flour, mixing with a pair of chopsticks as you go. The dough should come together into a loose mound. When there are no dry patches left, add the vegetable oil and knead for 8 minutes. You’ll know that the dough is ready when it has “Three Shines or San Guang 三光“ — Shiny hands, clean bowl, shiny dough. The dough should be smooth and soft like a baby's bottom.  If the dough is too sticky, add flour or vegetable oil. If the dough is too tight, add water to your hands and continue kneading. 

First rising*: Place the kneaded dough in a well-oiled bowl. Let sit in a warm spot for 1-2 hours until it has doubled in size. The time will depend on the temperature in your home so keep a keen eye on it. To check if the dough is ready — pull the dough away from the edge of the bowl. There should be strands of airy, honeycomb-like textures. 

Using well-oiled hands, lift the dough out of the bowl onto a floured surface. Knead for another 5 minutes until the air bubbles have popped and you have a smooth round ball. The fewer air bubbles, the smoother your buns will be. Roll the dough into a log and divide it into two portions. Cover one portion of the dough with a clean dishcloth while you work with the other half. This will prevent the dough from drying out. Roll your portion of dough into a log and divide it into 8 pieces. Each piece should weigh around 35-40 grams. Knead and roll each morsel into a round, smooth ball.

Rolling the wrapper: Flatten a morsel of dough with your palm. Using a rolling pin, roll it from the edge towards the center, without actually rolling the center of the dough. You want a thick center and thin edges on your wrapper. The wrapper should be 4-5 inches in diameter. 

Pleating the Bun: Place the wrapper in one hand and scoop a heaping tablespoon of filling into the center.  The filling should weigh around 30 grams. For beginners, start with a minimal amount of filling to help the pleating process. Flatten the filling with a spoon and follow the steps below. Switch hands if you are left-handed. 

• With your right forefinger and thumb, firmly pinch an edge of the wrapper to make the first fold. 

• Continue pinching folds with your right index finger and thumb. Rotate the wrapper with your left hand as you go, pinching until the whole bun is pleated. While pleating, use your left thumb to press down the filling so the dough comes over the filling. Your right thumb should never leave the bun.

• Seal the bun with a series of pinches to form the pointy top of the bun. Repeat with the remaining dough and filling.

Second Rising: Line your steamer with parchment paper*. Transfer your buns to the steamer, cover them, and let them sit for 15-20 minutes. The 2nd rising will allow the buns to be pillowy and soft. You’ll know the buns are ready when they have expanded in size and are fluffy and light to the touch. 

Steaming the buns: Over high heat, bring a pot of water to boil. Place the steamer on top and immediately turn the heat to medium. Steam for 15 minutes and let sit for 5 minutes before taking the lid off. This will ensure your buns do not deflate with the quick temperature change. 

Serve immediately, or let cool and refrigerate or freeze. To reheat, steam for 2-3 minutes in a steam or microwave with a wet paper towel covered on top. 

Cooking Tips:

1. If you are using instant yeast, substitute the same amount, skip the proofing step, and add the yeast directly to the dry ingredients. 

2. If you are making the filling ahead, mix everything together aside from the onion, spring onion, and sesame oil until you are ready to pleat the buns. This will prevent the vegetables from becoming too watery.

3. To speed up the rising process. Cover your dough and place it in the oven with a plate of boiling water underneath. The temperature should be around 38 C/100 F. The dough should be ready in 25-30 minutes. 

4. For beginners, start with a minimal amount of filling to help the pleating process. No one starts out with good-looking buns so practice makes perfect. 

5. You can find steamer liners at Asian shops. To make your own steamer liner — measure and cut a round parchment paper to fit inside your steamer. Cut holes in the parchment paper that are 1½ inches apart to allow steam to rise through.

6. These buns reheat extremely well in the steamer or microwave (covered with a damp paper towel before heating). Eat within 3 days or freeze in an airtight container for up to 2 months.

Kabocha Steamed Buns

When I think about steamed buns — I think about lining up for these, piping at hot breakfast shops 早餐店. Enjoyed with a cup of fresh soy milk. In Taipei, steamed bun shops line every alleyway, serving every kind of savoury and sweet filling you can think of. There is nothing like trying these buns handmade, straight from a steamer to your plate. 

We never had to learn how to make these back home as they are sold everywhere — made by people that have been cooking them for generations.  I love how working on these recipes made me think of home. Many have asked how I ended up working in food photography and here it is — food is truly a bridge between worlds and a love language for all cultures. My peaceful and delicious protest against long dreary winters in Canada.  

Here is my take on sweet buns, bao or baozi as you call it. Featuring my favourite kabocha squash and a dough dyed with carrot juice. For beginners, steamed buns are just as intimating to make as sourdough. But once you get into the process, it’s super rewarding. I hope you all have a chance to try a handmade bun, there is nothing quite like it!

Kabocha Steamed Buns

Serves 10

INGREDIENTS

Kabocha Filling*

• 350 g kabocha, around ½ a medium-sized kabocha

• ¼ cup (60g) sugar, or to taste

• ¼ cup (50 g) butter

• 1 tsp (4 g) vanilla extract 

Dough* (for carrot dough, see notes)

• 1/2 cup (150 g) of lukewarm water 

• 1½ tbsp (20 g) sugar

• 2 tsp (5 g) active yeast

• 2 cups (250 g) all-purpose flour

• 1 tsp (3 g) baking powder

• 1 tsp (5 g) vegetable oil

INSTRUCTIONS

For the Filling

1. Halve the kabocha and scoop out the seeds with a spoon. Peel and chop the kabocha into 2-inch pieces. Transfer the kabocha to a steamer and steam for 10-15 minutes. The kabocha is done when it is soft and easily pierced with a chopstick. 

2. Transfer the kabocha to a pot and add the sugar and butter. Heat over low heat, stir and mash the mixture with a spatula until everything comes together into a paste. Set aside and let cool. This filling should keep for 2-3 days in the fridge if made ahead.

For the Dough

1. Make the dough: In a small bowl, add the yeast, warm water, and sugar and stir to dissolve. Let sit for a few minutes to activate the yeast. The liquid should foam and look creamy. If not, your yeast is dead and you’ll have to try again.

2. First Kneading: In a large mixing bowl, add the flour and make a well in the center. Sprinkle the baking powder around the outer ridges of the bowl so it will incorporate later. Gradually stream in the yeast mixture to the flour, mixing with a pair of chopsticks as you go. The dough should come together into a loose mound. When there are no dry patches left, add the vegetable oil and knead for 10 minutes. You’ll know that the dough is ready when it has “Three Shines or San Guang 三光” — Shiny hands, clean bowl, shiny dough. The dough should be smooth and soft like a baby's bottom.  If the dough is too sticky, add flour or vegetable oil. If the dough is too tough, add water to your hands and continue kneading. 

3. First rising*: Place the kneaded dough in a well-oiled bowl. Cover and let sit in a warm spot for 1-2 hours until it has doubled in size. The time will depend on the temperature in your home so keep an eye on it. To check if the dough is ready — pull the dough away from the edge of the bowl. There should be strands of airy, honeycomb-like textures. 

4. Second Kneading: Using well-oiled hands, transfer the risen dough onto a pastry board. Knead vigorously for 8 minutes, popping as many air bubbles as you can.

5. Prepping the dough: Halve, and divide the dough into 10 morsels. I use a scale to ensure even portions. Knead each morsel into a sphere and flour generously to prevent sticking. Cover the dough morsels while you work so they don’t dry out.

6. Rolling the wrapper: Flatten a morsel of dough with your palm. Hold the edges of the dough in one hand and roll the edges from the outside in with a rolling pin, rotating as you go. You want thin edges and thick centers on your wrapper. The wrapper should be 4-5 inches in diameter. 

7. Pleating the Bun*: Place the wrapper in one hand and scoop a heading tablespoon of filling into the center. The filling should weigh around 30-40 grams. For beginners, start with a minimal amount of filling to help the pleating process. Flatten the filling with a spoon and follow the steps below. Reserve hands if you are left-handed. Refer to the moving image above.

   • With your right forefinger and thumb, firmly pinch an edge of the wrapper to make the first fold. 

   • Continue pinching folds with your right index finger and thumb. Rotate the wrapper with your left hand as you go, pinching until the whole bun is pleated. While pleating, use your left thumb to press down the filling so the dough comes over the filling. Your right thumb should never leave the bun.

   • Seal the bun with a series of pinches to form the pointy top of the bun. Repeat with the remaining dough and filling.

8. Second Rising:  Line your steamer with parchment paper*. Transfer your buns to the steamer, cover them, and let them sit for 15-20 minutes. The 2nd rising will allow the buns to be pillowy and soft. You’ll know the buns are ready when they have expanded in size and are fluffy and light to the touch. 

9. Steaming the buns: Over high heat, bring a pot of water to boil. Place the steamer on top and immediately turn the heat to medium. Steam for 12 minutes and let sit for 5 minutes before taking the lid off. This will ensure your buns do not deflate with the quick temperature change. 

10. Serve immediately, or let cool and refrigerate or freeze. To reheat, steam for 2-3 minutes in a steam or microwave with a wet paper towel covered on top. 

Cooking Tips:

• Carrot Dough: Blend ½ of a medium carrot with one cup of water in a powerful blender. Strain the pulp and use the liquid in place of the lukewarm water in the dough recipe. Omit the sugar in the dough recipe since carrots are naturally sweet.

• To speed up the rising process. Place your dough or wrapped buns in the oven with a plate of boiling water underneath. The temperature should be around 38 C/100 F. Check the dough around the 25-30 minute mark. 

• For beginners, start with a minimal amount of filling to help the pleating process. No one starts out with good-looking buns so practice makes perfect. 

• You can find steamer liners at Asian shops. To make your own steamer liner — measure and cut a round parchment paper to fit inside your steamer. Cut holes in the parchment paper that are 1½ inches apart to allow steam to rise through.

• Alternatively, you can use pumpkin instead of kabocha. If using canned pumpkin, you’ll have to boil down the puree until no liquids remain. The filling should be a paste, not a sauce.

Vegan Zha Jiang Noodles

I love these vegan black bean noodles. Known as Zha Jiang Mian (炸醬麵) in China or Taiwan and even Korea. These are great for summer when the heat is too intense for soups. Traditionally, Zha Jiang Mian is made with pork. I love this vegan version made with tofu — you really don’t miss the meat here! I’ve made it for western friends and they all love the black bean sauce.

If you’re new to bean sauces, they come in spicy, sweet, and salty variations. It can be intimidating but also forgiving if you buy the wrong kind. Just adjust the seasoning to taste. The brands I used for this recipe is pictured below.

Black bean paste, sweet bean paste and my favourite knife cut noodles.

Vegan Black Bean Zha-Jiang Noodles (炸醬麵）

Serves 2-3

Ingredients

Sauce

• 2 tablespoons salty bean paste (or Soybean Paste / Dou ban Jiang豆瓣醬)*

• 6 tablespoons of sweet bean paste (Tian Mian Jiang 甜麵醬）

• ½ cup Shaoxing wine, rice wine, or sherry

• 1 tablespoon sugar

• 1.5 cup (120 grams) chopped mushrooms (I use white button or king oyster mushrooms)

• 1 package (285 grams) of firm tofu, patted dry and crumbled into pieces

Fragrant Oil *

• ½ cup oil

• 1 onion cut into 8 wedges

• 1 green onion, chopped coarsely

Other Ingredients

• Noodles of choice*

• Shredded cucumber and carrot

• Chopped cilantro or green onions (optional)

Instructions

1. Place all the bean pastes in a large mixing bowl, add the Shaoxing wine, and mix until well combined. Set aside.

2. Using a large non-stick pan, add ½ cup of oil, the chopped onion, and green onion. Cook over medium-low heat until the onions turn brown and crispy, around 8-10 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to discard or save the onions for other dishes.

3. In the same pan, add the crumbled tofu and fry until golden brown. stirring continuously. Add in the mushrooms, and cook until softened and aromatic.

4. Stir in the bean sauce and turn the heat to low. Stirring constantly until the sauce evaporates into a chunky mixture. Adjust with sugar or salt to taste.

5. Cook noodles as directed and set aside.

6. To serve, spoon sauce over noodles and top with shredded cucumber, carrot, green onions, or cilantro (optional). Serve warm.

Cooking notes:

• If you’re new to bean sauces, they come in spicy, sweet, and salty variations. It can be intimidating but also forgiving if you buy the wrong kind. Just adjust the seasoning to taste.

• The black bean paste is very salty! Go easy on it if it’s your first time cooking with it.

• Substitute the fragrant oil with different flavored oils like shallot oil.

• I like to double the portions for leftovers. The sauce is very good served with summer vegetables over a salad.

Beef Dumplings

Here’s a recipe for one of the most iconic Chinese dishes. If you’re yet to try handmade ones — they make all of the difference. It is a time-consuming recipe but one that brings everyone around the table, pulling their weight and sharing deliciousness. Dumplings skins are super accessible from the shops but if you have the time, hand-kneaded dough makes all the difference.

Most of my memories of dumpling nights start with a bowl of fillings. My mom will mix the meat and seasonings, and hand me a pair of chopsticks to do the rest. The longer you mix, the tastier the filling. I seriously believe that good Chinese food is rooted in time, effort, and acceptable forms of child labor. For me — the prep, the process, and the smell of sesame oil are fundamental to a good dumpling night.

If you’re new to dumpling-making, don’t be intimidated. Experiment and have fun. There are multiple ways to fold dumplings and they all work as long as the fillings stay tucked in. It all comes down to practice and you’re lucky enough — an experience dumpling master to guide you.

Beef Vegetable Dumplings

Serves 2, double this recipe to serve 4-5

INGREDIENTS 

• 1/2 pound (230 grams) fatty ground beef

• 1 tbsp soy sauce

• 1 tbsp rice wine (or Shaoxing wine or dry sherry)

• 2 tsp ginger, grated

• 1 tsp salt

• 1/4 tsp white pepper

• 1 tbsp sesame oil

• 4 green onions, stems removed and chopped

• 1 large carrot, peeled and finely chopped

• 20 store-bought or homemade dumpling wrappers

INSTRUCTIONS

Making the Filling

• Add ground beef to a large mixing bowl. Add the soy sauce, rice wine, ginger, salt, and sesame oil. Using a pair of chopsticks, mix thoroughly until the liquids are absorbed. Cover with a plastic wrap and let marinate while you prep other ingredients. The filling will last up to 2 days in the fridge.

• (Optional) Start making dumpling dough now if you’re planning to use homemade dumpling wrappers.

• Grate or chop the carrots and green onions in a food processor until finely chopped. Mix, cover, and set aside.

  When you’re ready to make the dumplings, add the chopped green onion and carrot into the meat mixture. Stir until combined.

  Folding the Dumplings

• Prepare a small dish with water. Place a dumpling wrapper in one hand — scoop about 1 to 1.5 tablespoons of dumpling filling and place it in the center of the wrapper. Wet the upper rim of the dumpling wrapper and fold the wrapper in half. Pinch and seals the edges before folding, starting from one side to the other.

• After folding, press the fold tight again to seal well. You can use any folding technique as long as the dumplings stay sealed.

• Freeze the dumplings if you are not cooking them. Place them onto a baking tray and seal with a plastic wrapper. You can store the dumplings in the freezer for up to 1 month. Once the dumplings are completely frozen, you can transport them to an airtight bag to save freezer space.
  
  Cooking the dumplings

• Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Gently drop in 12-15 dumplings and bring to a boil again. The dumplings are ready when they puff and float to the surface. To check if they are done — scoop out a dumpling and cut it in half. The meat should no longer be pink.

• Serve immediately with dumpling soy dipping sauce and pickled garlic cloves (optional). I like this soy, vinegar, and maple syrup sauce.

Cooking tips:

• Double this recipe for gatherings of 4-5 people.

• I like to prep my dumpling fillings ahead and let them chill in the fridge. This will make the meat filling easier to handle.

• For those new to making dumplings — start with less filling in your wrapper for easy success.

• Always assign a dumpling pincher/overseer for quality control. This will prevent the dumplings from opening during the cooking process. You don’t want a soggy dumpling.

This recipe is adapted from Xinshipu and Omnivore’s cookbook.

Stir-fried Tomato and Egg / 番茄炒蛋

Amongst all my memories of delicious childhood dishes — this is by far my favorite + most classic of all. Everything Chinese family has a version. My dad makes it, my grandma makes it, all the lunch bento spots we ate at as students make it. It’s ridiculously comforting and easy to make with minimal ingredients. The sweet-sour tang of tomatoes makes the dish so full of umami flavor and brings depth to a simple egg dish. A classic away-from-home dish to make during my years as a college student and while living abroad.

Ripe juicy tomatoes, a handful of eggs, green onions and cornstarch is all you need. Let’s get cooking

Note: If I am making this dish for one— I halve the recipe.

Tomato Fried Egg

Serves 2–3, recipe adapted from Adam Liaw

Ingredients
3 ripe medium-sized tomatoes, roughly chopped
1/2 cup water
2 tbsp vegetable oil
½ tsp salt
¼ tsp sugar
2 spring onions, cut into 5cm lengths
½ tsp cornstarch, mixed with a little cold water
5 eggs, beaten

Instructions

1. Heat a medium pan over medium-high heat and add a tablespoon of oil. When the oil is hot, add the tomatoes and fry until they are soft around 2 minutes.

2. Add the salt, sugar, 1/2 cup water, and green onions. When the green onions soften, slowly add the cornstarch mixture, stirring as you go. The tomato mixture will thicken into a saucy slurry. Taste and add more salt or sugar as desired. Remove the tomato mixture from the pan and rinse the pan.

3. Return the pan to heat and add the remaining tablespoon of oil. Add the beaten eggs and stir every 15 seconds until the eggs resemble the texture of a loose omelet. Add the tomato mixture to the eggs and stir to combine. Taste and adjust seasoning, garnish with more green onions if desired. Serve immediately.

Three Cup (Sanbei) Tofu

A plant-based dish with intensely good flavors.

If you have ever been to Asia — you’ll know what I am talking about when you eat at those hole-in-the-wall street restaurants. A gathering place where all levels of society come together and order enough food to cover several tables. You don’t go there for fine dining but for the clatter of smoky woks, clinks of Taiwanese beer bottles (guava juice for the kids), scooters lined out the door, and the non-stop motion of the city.

Traditionally, this dish is made with chicken that I’ve adapted with tofu for plant-based cooking. The name three-cup refers to the equal ratio of rice wine, soy sauce, and sesame oil. The ingredients have evolved and been adapted over time to suit different regions in Taiwan and China. 

This is a dish that is healthy enough to be a household staple, though it doesn’t guarantee any leftovers based on experience. The generous amounts of ginger, garlic, basil, and sesame oil create flavors that are intense and captivating to the taste buds.

If you are new to Taiwanese cooking wine/Mijiu 米酒 — I recommend you pick up a bottle at your local Asian grocery (I get mine from T & T in Vancouver). There are substitutes you can use like Chinese rice wine, sake, dry sherry, or plain vegetable stock but you’ll get the best results from Taiwanese cooking wine. It’s what I grew up with.

This is the brand I get from my local Asian store. Made in Taiwan.

Three Cup Tofu

Serves 2,

Ingredients

• 14 oz (1 package) medium-firm tofu, drained and patted dry

• 3-inch knob of ginger, sliced into thin pieces*

• 5 cloves garlic, sliced

• 1 Thai red chili, chopped into pieces

• 1 packed cup of fresh Thai basil, roughly chopped

• 1/3 cup cornstarch

• oil for cooking

Sauce

• 3 tbsp Taiwanese cooking wine 米酒 (sub rice wine/sake/vegetable broth if you must)*

• 3 tbsp soy sauce⁣ or Tamari

• 3 tbsp sesame oil⁣

• 1 tbsp sugar⁣

• ⅓ cup [80g] water⁣

Instructions

1. Dry the tofu with paper towels (I let mine drain on a paper towel while I prep). Slice the tofu in half lengthwise and cut each half into 1cm-thick slices or cubes.

2. Place the cornstarch in a large bowl and coat the tofu slices one by one, on all sides. Add more cornstarch if needed. Lay the coated tofu slices on a large plate for frying, making sure not to overcrowd them.

3. Heat a large frying pan over medium-high heat and add 2 tablespoons of oil. When the oil is hot, fry the tofu until golden and crispy, flipping every 3–5 minutes. This will take around 10 minutes. If the tofu cooks too quickly, lower the heat to medium.

4. While the tofu is frying. Add all the sauce ingredients into a bowl. Stir to dissolve the sugar.

5. Remove tofu from the pan and set it aside in a bowl. In the same pan over medium-high heat, add 2 tablespoons of oil and fry the ginger pieces until brown and golden, around 1 minute. Add the garlic and chili until they are crispy and become incredibly fragrant. Making sure the aromatics do not burn.

6. Pour in the sauce and stir until the sugar has completely dissolved. Add the tofu slices and toss to combine. Lower the heat to medium, add the Thai basil and cook until the sauce has reduced to a syrupy state. Turn off the heat and serve warm with rice. 

Cooking Notes:

Ginger: Make sure to fry the pieces until golden brown on all sides. Ginger, unlike garlic — lasts a lot longer in hot oil. Make sure to separate their cooking processes.

Taiwanese Cooking Wine/Rice Wine: See the photo here for the brand I use.

Garnish: Serve with Thai basil, cilantro, or green onions.

Yunan Spicy Potato Pancakes

Most days, after long hours of cooking and photographing food — there are few things I look forward to than potatoes with a dash of olive oil, salt and pepper. The comfort of carbs and refreshment for the over-stimulated taste buds.

This potato pancake requires a fair bit of arm work, a trusty grater, and a passion for spicy Chinese food. In this case — cuisine from the mountainous province of Yunnan. All at once, Yunnan is known for its scenic views, mountains and rivers that run throughout the province. Mushrooms, flowers, fresh river fish, rice noodles (Mi Xian) are key to Yunnan cuisine.

My memories of Yunnan cuisine consist of sensational hot pots I had in Beijing — a visual meal filled with mushrooms of every kind, carnation petals, sesame sauce, jasmine flowers marinated in vinegar and rice wine served in bamboo flasks. Then there was my auntie’s Yunnan restaurant in Taipei — I can still recall the array of fresh fish, red chilis and fungi served with every meal. In Vancouver — the closest conversations I have around Yunnan food are with my designer friend Lisa, whose family hails from the rivers and mountains of Yunnan.

These potato pancakes are an adaptation to a local snack served at street markets in Yunnan. The egg in this recipe was added by Lisa’s grandmother for nutritional purposes. The potato starch that seeps from salted potatoes acts as a natural binding agent. It’s a great side dish for dinner and something I look forward to eating for breakfast. The recipe is adapted (and tested four times) by yours truly, with Lisa suggesting to dip it in a sauce made of vinegar, soy sauce and Yunnan chilli flakes.

Lisa and a potato pancake feast

Potato starch separating from potato water.

The only spicy, sweet and sour dipping sauce you need. Recipe here

Yunnan Potato Pancakes

Serves 2 (1 potato makes one pancake)
You will need a box grater or mandolin, two large mixing bowls, and a nonstick frying pan

Ingredients

• 2 medium-large russet potatoes

• 1 1/2 teaspoon salt

• 1/4 teaspoon black pepper

• 1 teaspoon soy sauce

• 1 teaspoon sesame oil

• 1/2 teaspoon chili flakes

• 2 eggs

• Green onions, sliced (optional)

Instructions

1. Grate the potatoes into a large mixing bowl. Add 1 1/2 teaspoons of salt and mix thoroughly. Allow the potatoes to sit for 15 mins (or as long as 30 mins) for the water to separate out from the potatoes. Squeeze as much water as you can out of the potatoes into the bowl and transfer the potatoes to a second bowl. Leave the residue water in the original bowl.

2. Let the residue water sit until the potato starch sets in a layer at the bottom, 1-3 minutes. Discard the water on top, using hands or a spoon, and transfer the potato starch into the grated potatoes. This will help bind the pancake together.

3. Create a well in the potato mixture and crack in the eggs. Gently beat until the whites and yolk are mixed. Add the black pepper, soy sauce, and sesame oil to the egg and mix thoroughly.

4. Heat a medium frying pan until medium-high heat. Using a spatula, transfer a quarter of the potato mixture onto the frying pan and press gently to form a pancake. Turn the heat down to medium-low and fry for 4–5 minutes per side.

5. Serve straight from the pan with sweet & spicy dipping sauce. Garnish with green onions. Bon Appétit!

Cooking Tips

*Turning the heat down once potatoes are in the pan will ensure thorough cooking and a crispy outer layer without burning the pancake.

Cilantro Salad with Shallot Oil

I had a bunch of cilantro sitting in the fridge leftover from a week of recipe shooting. It felt like a problem waiting for a creative solution. I researched some recipes online and came across the delightful site of Madame Huang, a California native who lived in Taiwan for a number of years.

I love this recipe because I now have a way to use up all my extra cilantro. I also rediscovered a lovely substitute for sesame oil if I ever need something that tastes a little lighter and fragrant —shallot oil.

I grew up eating fried shallots in lots of dishes — a topping over rice noodle soups, folded into steamed turnip cakes or served over vegetables. I usually avoid store brought fried shallots, not trusting the quality of oil they were fried in. A good reason to make one’s own.

This salad calls for an entire bunch of cilantro. Not brown, wilted ones but fresh, vibrant cilantro. I substituted peanuts for cashews and yellow pepper for red since I cannot drop by the grocery store as easily these days. Toasted peanuts on the top of my shopping list next week. 

Shallot Oil

Ingredients

1 cup thinly sliced shallots (around three shallots)
1.5 cup fresh rice bran oil ( sub peanut or grapeseed oil)

*Make this oil at least a day ahead before you want to use it to flavour your dish.

Instructions

Slice shallots into thin rings, as evenly as you can. Heat oil over medium-high heat in a pan. You can tell the oil is ready when there are small ripples on the surface. Test by inserting a chopstick into the oil, it should be covered in bubbles immediately. Sprinkle in the shallots, reduce heat to medium and fry them until they turn a golden brown. Stir often so they fry evenly. Turn the heat off when they are a light golden brown, and fry with the residue heat.

Strain the shallots over a sieve into a vessel. Reserve the shallots as a topping, and use the oil for stir fry, a sesame oil substitute or in other dishes. Alternatively, you can add the cooled oil back into the shallots and use as a topping over rice, noodles or steamed greens

Cilantro and Peanut Salad

Ingredients

1 bunch fresh cilantro*
½ cup fried or toasted peanuts
½ sweet bell pepper 
1 tsp soy sauce
½ tsp sugar
¼ tsp sea salt
2 tbsp shallot oil (sub sesame oil)
1 tbsp toasted sesame seeds

Instructions

Trim and remove the tough or browned stalks of cilantro. Wash in water, shake dry, cut into 1-inch pieces and transfer to a mixing bowl. Prep the bell pepper and slice into small pieces, around the size of a peanut. Add peppers to the mixing bowl.

Toss cilantro with pepper, peanuts and the rest of ingredients. Taste and add more seasoning if you’d like. I added some fried shallots from the shallot oil. Serve as an appetizer or as a side. Also great as a chilled dish, just toss in the peanuts and dressing before serving. 

*As cilantro is the main ingredient, use the nicest bunch you can find.