When I think about steamed buns — I think about lining up for these, piping at hot breakfast shops 早餐店. Enjoyed with a cup of fresh soy milk. In Taipei, steamed bun shops line every alleyway, serving every kind of savoury and sweet filling you can think of. There is nothing like trying these buns handmade, straight from a steamer to your plate.
We never had to learn how to make these back home as they are sold everywhere — made by people that have been cooking them for generations. I love how working on these recipes made me think of home. Many have asked how I ended up working in food photography and here it is — food is truly a bridge between worlds and a love language for all cultures. My peaceful and delicious protest against long dreary winters in Canada.
Here is my take on sweet buns, bao or baozi as you call it. Featuring my favourite kabocha squash and a dough dyed with carrot juice. For beginners, steamed buns are just as intimating to make as sourdough. But once you get into the process, it’s super rewarding. I hope you all have a chance to try a handmade bun, there is nothing quite like it!
Kabocha Steamed Buns
Serves 10
INGREDIENTS
Kabocha Filling*
350 g kabocha, around ½ a medium-sized kabocha
¼ cup (60g) sugar, or to taste
¼ cup (50 g) butter
1 tsp (4 g) vanilla extract
Dough* (for carrot dough, see notes)
1/2 cup (150 g) of lukewarm water
1½ tbsp (20 g) sugar
2 tsp (5 g) active yeast
2 cups (250 g) all-purpose flour
1 tsp (3 g) baking powder
1 tsp (5 g) vegetable oil
INSTRUCTIONS
For the Filling
Halve the kabocha and scoop out the seeds with a spoon. Peel and chop the kabocha into 2-inch pieces. Transfer the kabocha to a steamer and steam for 10-15 minutes. The kabocha is done when it is soft and easily pierced with a chopstick.
Transfer the kabocha to a pot and add the sugar and butter. Heat over low heat, stir and mash the mixture with a spatula until everything comes together into a paste. Set aside and let cool. This filling should keep for 2-3 days in the fridge if made ahead.
For the Dough
Make the dough: In a small bowl, add the yeast, warm water, and sugar and stir to dissolve. Let sit for a few minutes to activate the yeast. The liquid should foam and look creamy. If not, your yeast is dead and you’ll have to try again.
First Kneading: In a large mixing bowl, add the flour and make a well in the center. Sprinkle the baking powder around the outer ridges of the bowl so it will incorporate later. Gradually stream in the yeast mixture to the flour, mixing with a pair of chopsticks as you go. The dough should come together into a loose mound. When there are no dry patches left, add the vegetable oil and knead for 10 minutes. You’ll know that the dough is ready when it has “Three Shines or San Guang 三光” — Shiny hands, clean bowl, shiny dough. The dough should be smooth and soft like a baby's bottom. If the dough is too sticky, add flour or vegetable oil. If the dough is too tough, add water to your hands and continue kneading.
First rising*: Place the kneaded dough in a well-oiled bowl. Cover and let sit in a warm spot for 1-2 hours until it has doubled in size. The time will depend on the temperature in your home so keep an eye on it. To check if the dough is ready — pull the dough away from the edge of the bowl. There should be strands of airy, honeycomb-like textures.
Second Kneading: Using well-oiled hands, transfer the risen dough onto a pastry board. Knead vigorously for 8 minutes, popping as many air bubbles as you can.
Prepping the dough: Halve, and divide the dough into 10 morsels. I use a scale to ensure even portions. Knead each morsel into a sphere and flour generously to prevent sticking. Cover the dough morsels while you work so they don’t dry out.
Rolling the wrapper: Flatten a morsel of dough with your palm. Hold the edges of the dough in one hand and roll the edges from the outside in with a rolling pin, rotating as you go. You want thin edges and thick centers on your wrapper. The wrapper should be 4-5 inches in diameter.
Pleating the Bun*: Place the wrapper in one hand and scoop a heading tablespoon of filling into the center. The filling should weigh around 30-40 grams. For beginners, start with a minimal amount of filling to help the pleating process. Flatten the filling with a spoon and follow the steps below. Reserve hands if you are left-handed. Refer to the moving image above.
With your right forefinger and thumb, firmly pinch an edge of the wrapper to make the first fold.
Continue pinching folds with your right index finger and thumb. Rotate the wrapper with your left hand as you go, pinching until the whole bun is pleated. While pleating, use your left thumb to press down the filling so the dough comes over the filling. Your right thumb should never leave the bun.
Seal the bun with a series of pinches to form the pointy top of the bun. Repeat with the remaining dough and filling.
Second Rising: Line your steamer with parchment paper*. Transfer your buns to the steamer, cover them, and let them sit for 15-20 minutes. The 2nd rising will allow the buns to be pillowy and soft. You’ll know the buns are ready when they have expanded in size and are fluffy and light to the touch.
Steaming the buns: Over high heat, bring a pot of water to boil. Place the steamer on top and immediately turn the heat to medium. Steam for 12 minutes and let sit for 5 minutes before taking the lid off. This will ensure your buns do not deflate with the quick temperature change.
Serve immediately, or let cool and refrigerate or freeze. To reheat, steam for 2-3 minutes in a steam or microwave with a wet paper towel covered on top.
Cooking Tips:
Carrot Dough: Blend ½ of a medium carrot with one cup of water in a powerful blender. Strain the pulp and use the liquid in place of the lukewarm water in the dough recipe. Omit the sugar in the dough recipe since carrots are naturally sweet.
To speed up the rising process. Place your dough or wrapped buns in the oven with a plate of boiling water underneath. The temperature should be around 38 C/100 F. Check the dough around the 25-30 minute mark.
For beginners, start with a minimal amount of filling to help the pleating process. No one starts out with good-looking buns so practice makes perfect.
You can find steamer liners at Asian shops. To make your own steamer liner — measure and cut a round parchment paper to fit inside your steamer. Cut holes in the parchment paper that are 1½ inches apart to allow steam to rise through.
Alternatively, you can use pumpkin instead of kabocha. If using canned pumpkin, you’ll have to boil down the puree until no liquids remain. The filling should be a paste, not a sauce.
