Three Cup (Sanbei) Tofu

A plant-based dish with intensely good flavors.

If you have ever been to Asia — you’ll know what I am talking about when you eat at those hole-in-the-wall street restaurants. A gathering place where all levels of society come together and order enough food to cover several tables. You don’t go there for fine dining but for the clatter of smoky woks, clinks of Taiwanese beer bottles (guava juice for the kids), scooters lined out the door, and the non-stop motion of the city.

Traditionally, this dish is made with chicken that I’ve adapted with tofu for plant-based cooking. The name three-cup refers to the equal ratio of rice wine, soy sauce, and sesame oil. The ingredients have evolved and been adapted over time to suit different regions in Taiwan and China. 

This is a dish that is healthy enough to be a household staple, though it doesn’t guarantee any leftovers based on experience. The generous amounts of ginger, garlic, basil, and sesame oil create flavors that are intense and captivating to the taste buds.

If you are new to Taiwanese cooking wine/Mijiu 米酒 — I recommend you pick up a bottle at your local Asian grocery (I get mine from T & T in Vancouver). There are substitutes you can use like Chinese rice wine, sake, dry sherry, or plain vegetable stock but you’ll get the best results from Taiwanese cooking wine. It’s what I grew up with.

This is the brand I get from my local Asian store. Made in Taiwan.

Three Cup Tofu

Serves 2,

Ingredients

• 14 oz (1 package) medium-firm tofu, drained and patted dry

• 3-inch knob of ginger, sliced into thin pieces*

• 5 cloves garlic, sliced

• 1 Thai red chili, chopped into pieces

• 1 packed cup of fresh Thai basil, roughly chopped

• 1/3 cup cornstarch

• oil for cooking

Sauce

• 3 tbsp Taiwanese cooking wine 米酒 (sub rice wine/sake/vegetable broth if you must)*

• 3 tbsp soy sauce⁣ or Tamari

• 3 tbsp sesame oil⁣

• 1 tbsp sugar⁣

• ⅓ cup [80g] water⁣

Instructions

1. Dry the tofu with paper towels (I let mine drain on a paper towel while I prep). Slice the tofu in half lengthwise and cut each half into 1cm-thick slices or cubes.

2. Place the cornstarch in a large bowl and coat the tofu slices one by one, on all sides. Add more cornstarch if needed. Lay the coated tofu slices on a large plate for frying, making sure not to overcrowd them.

3. Heat a large frying pan over medium-high heat and add 2 tablespoons of oil. When the oil is hot, fry the tofu until golden and crispy, flipping every 3–5 minutes. This will take around 10 minutes. If the tofu cooks too quickly, lower the heat to medium.

4. While the tofu is frying. Add all the sauce ingredients into a bowl. Stir to dissolve the sugar.

5. Remove tofu from the pan and set it aside in a bowl. In the same pan over medium-high heat, add 2 tablespoons of oil and fry the ginger pieces until brown and golden, around 1 minute. Add the garlic and chili until they are crispy and become incredibly fragrant. Making sure the aromatics do not burn.

6. Pour in the sauce and stir until the sugar has completely dissolved. Add the tofu slices and toss to combine. Lower the heat to medium, add the Thai basil and cook until the sauce has reduced to a syrupy state. Turn off the heat and serve warm with rice. 

Cooking Notes:

Ginger: Make sure to fry the pieces until golden brown on all sides. Ginger, unlike garlic — lasts a lot longer in hot oil. Make sure to separate their cooking processes.

Taiwanese Cooking Wine/Rice Wine: See the photo here for the brand I use.

Garnish: Serve with Thai basil, cilantro, or green onions.

Taro coconut sago

This is one of my favorite summer desserts. It’s also a good recipe for winter when served warm. If you never had the chance to try taro — it has a nuttier, starchy texture compared to sweet potatoes. It’s also less sweet and is used in a variety of Asian desserts. 

When I lived with grandma on her tea farm in Taiwan, I would accompany her in the field every day and dig for baby taro. Dessert was simply steamed taro, peeled, and sometimes dipped in sugar. A nostalgic ingredient for me. 

Taro coconut sago

Ingredients:

• 1/2 medium-sized taro (400 grams), peeled and diced into 1-inch cubes

• 1 can (14 oz) full-fat coconut cream

• 1/2 cup sago pearls (100 grams)

• 1/3 cups sugar (80 grams) or preferred sweetener to taste

• A pinch of salt

• Water

Instructions

1. In a pot & steamer, bring water to a boil and steam taro for 15 minutes. If you prefer mushier taro like me, steam for 3 minutes longer. Turn off the heat and let sit while you cook the sago.

2. In a separate pot, bring 6 cups of water to a boil and add the sago pearls. Cook for 10 minutes, stirring constantly so they don’t stick to the bottom of the pot. Turn off the heat and let sit for 20 minutes. The residual heat will cook the pearls and they should turn from white to translucent.

3. Pour the pot of sago pearls into a large sieve and run cold water through it, stirring with a fork. This will stop the cooking process and prevent your sago from getting too gluggy. Set the sago aside.

4. In a clean pot, bring the can of coconut cream to a low simmer. While you are waiting — mash half of the taro in a bowl with a fork. Add all of the taro, 1/2 cup water (or more to achieve desired consistency), salt to the coconut cream and bring to a simmer. Add the sago pearls last and give it a good stir. Serve hot or chilled in the fridge.

Notes:

Consistency: The soup will become thicker the longer it sits, simply add water and adjust to the desired consistency.

Fresh Taro: Taro can be found fresh in most Asian markets. In the case you can’t find any, try some from the frozen section, though you can’t beat the fragrance of freshly cooked taro.

Over-stirring: Avoid over-stirring after everything is added together. This will ensure you get all the lovely textures from your ingredients.

Smashed Cucumber Salad

In Taiwan, one cannot eat at a restaurant without ordering 小菜 “Little Plate” or side dishes. Usually consisting of vegetables, marinated firm tofu, soft boiled peanuts, or black wood ear mushrooms. Little Plate is a part of Taiwanese restaurant culture and something I look forward to every time I eat out. It is also a good way to get your veggie fix as Taiwanese cuisine can be heavy and salads are not really a thing.

This cucumber salad is a 涼拌, which translates into “Cold Toss”. Similar in cooking style compared to a green papaya salad — I would say it is a signature “little plate” in Taiwan. I enjoy making this as an appetizer when friends come over. It’s refreshing yet flavourful. The peanuts make it indulgent, the birds-eye chilli gives it a good kick, and one can not eat too many cucumber dishes in summer weather.

Smashed Cucumber Salad 涼拌小黃瓜

Ingredients

5 mini Japanese or Persian cucumbers (around 350 grams)

2 Tbsp Kosher salt

4 red or green Thai chiles, halved lengthwise keeping stem end intact

2 garlic cloves, minced

½ cup unseasoned rice vinegar

2 Tbsp fish sauce

1 Tbsp sugar

Chopped unsalted or salted roasted peanuts

Instructions

Smash cucumbers with a rolling pin or a wine bottle. Careful not to smash too close to the cutting board now, you want some crunch in them. Tear into 2-inch pieces, place in a medium bowl and season with salt. Let sit for 30 minutes.

In the meantime, add chillies, garlic, vinegar, fish sauce and sugar to a medium bowl. Whisk until the sugar dissolves.

Drain cucumbers, rinse with cold water and squeeze to release salty water. Add to bowl with dressing and toss to combine. Chill in the fridge for an hour and serve topped with peanuts.

These cucumbers will keep in the fridge for 2 or 3 days.

Cilantro Salad with Shallot Oil

I had a bunch of cilantro sitting in the fridge leftover from a week of recipe shooting. It felt like a problem waiting for a creative solution. I researched some recipes online and came across the delightful site of Madame Huang, a California native who lived in Taiwan for a number of years.

I love this recipe because I now have a way to use up all my extra cilantro. I also rediscovered a lovely substitute for sesame oil if I ever need something that tastes a little lighter and fragrant —shallot oil.

I grew up eating fried shallots in lots of dishes — a topping over rice noodle soups, folded into steamed turnip cakes or served over vegetables. I usually avoid store brought fried shallots, not trusting the quality of oil they were fried in. A good reason to make one’s own.

This salad calls for an entire bunch of cilantro. Not brown, wilted ones but fresh, vibrant cilantro. I substituted peanuts for cashews and yellow pepper for red since I cannot drop by the grocery store as easily these days. Toasted peanuts on the top of my shopping list next week. 

Shallot Oil

Ingredients

1 cup thinly sliced shallots (around three shallots)
1.5 cup fresh rice bran oil ( sub peanut or grapeseed oil)

*Make this oil at least a day ahead before you want to use it to flavour your dish.

Instructions

Slice shallots into thin rings, as evenly as you can. Heat oil over medium-high heat in a pan. You can tell the oil is ready when there are small ripples on the surface. Test by inserting a chopstick into the oil, it should be covered in bubbles immediately. Sprinkle in the shallots, reduce heat to medium and fry them until they turn a golden brown. Stir often so they fry evenly. Turn the heat off when they are a light golden brown, and fry with the residue heat.

Strain the shallots over a sieve into a vessel. Reserve the shallots as a topping, and use the oil for stir fry, a sesame oil substitute or in other dishes. Alternatively, you can add the cooled oil back into the shallots and use as a topping over rice, noodles or steamed greens

Cilantro and Peanut Salad

Ingredients

1 bunch fresh cilantro*
½ cup fried or toasted peanuts
½ sweet bell pepper 
1 tsp soy sauce
½ tsp sugar
¼ tsp sea salt
2 tbsp shallot oil (sub sesame oil)
1 tbsp toasted sesame seeds

Instructions

Trim and remove the tough or browned stalks of cilantro. Wash in water, shake dry, cut into 1-inch pieces and transfer to a mixing bowl. Prep the bell pepper and slice into small pieces, around the size of a peanut. Add peppers to the mixing bowl.

Toss cilantro with pepper, peanuts and the rest of ingredients. Taste and add more seasoning if you’d like. I added some fried shallots from the shallot oil. Serve as an appetizer or as a side. Also great as a chilled dish, just toss in the peanuts and dressing before serving. 

*As cilantro is the main ingredient, use the nicest bunch you can find.